When I told people I was going travelling around Albania I got all sorts of questions. ‘Is it safe?’ ‘Where is Albania?’ And the most common one ‘why?’
Well I’m going to tell you exactly WHY Albania should be on your bucket list and why you should go sooner rather than later.
Albania is located in the Balkans and is neighbours with Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Greece. Unlike it’s very touristy sister country Greece, Albania is relatively untouched when it comes to international travel, especially by Brits. However, after speaking with locals and other backpackers, everyone is certain it is going to become the next Croatia due to it’s stunning beaches, rich history and most importantly, for how cheap it is.
Upon arriving in Albania, I didn’t really know what to expect. It was exactly how I’d imagined it in some ways but in others it was exactly the opposite. Yes the country is a little backwards and behind the times but one thing that can’t be denied is the people are the friendliest I’ve ever met. Although many of the older generation don’t speak much English they always went out of their way to help in whatever way they could. Whether this be pointing out bus stops (as these aren’t always marked out) or giving directions not one person turned their nose up at helping the sometimes lost and confused tourists.
Important things to note
CASH IS KING. Not many places take card so be prepared with cash. Albanian Lek is not an easy currency to obtain so order it online beforehand which could take a while to arrive or withdraw from a cash machine in Tirana or Saranda.
Get a local SIM card at any vodaphone shop. It will be so handy for directions as locals don’t always speak English. The easiest place to do this is in Tirana. Be make sure to take your passport with you.
It is possible to do this whole itinerary by bus for very cheap just plan ahead! Albania is still developing in comparison to the rest of Europe and things are not always as advanced including the transport system. Bus timetables are hard to find and not always available. Speak to a few locals and double check what time the first/last bus to a destination is to ensure you don’t get stuck anywhere like we did.
Taxis are available in Albania and not over expensive but I’d check with your hostel/hotel first to see if they can arrange a transfer at a better cost.
Also, don’t be shocked if theres no seats left on the bus and you’re asked to sit on a stool in then aisle (yes, it happened)
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Tirana (2 days)
Tirana is the capital and if you are arriving by air then you will be starting your Albania journey here. Although Tirana was founded as a city in 1614, it only became the capital of Albania in 1912 meaning it is a relatively new city and it is still under construction to become a typical capital.
The best things to do in Tirana:
- Visit Bunk’Art 1 on the outskirts of the city. A museum made out of a bunker spanning 106 rooms which was built for Enver Hoxha and his government in case of a nuclear attack. It was obviously never used for its intended purpose and it has now been made into a museum about the history of Albania.
- Visit Bunk’Art 2. Smaller than Bunk’Art 1 but located in the centre of Tirana, it shows Albania’s police history.
- Take the Dajti Ekspres Cable Car to get stunning views of Tirana. Plan to spend an afternoon here. There is loads to do at the top activities wise, hiking and also bars and restaurants at a moderate price.
- Free walking tour to learn about the communist history of Albania (very interesting and probably one of my favourite walking tours ever!)
- Explore a few of the 10,000 bunkers that are dotted all around the country
Where to stay: Trip’n’Hostel
Berat (3 days)
Berat was hands down my favourite place in all of Albania. It is charming, the people are friendly and it is just a lovely place to walk around. Gazing at the white ottoman houses that line the hill up to the castle is a view I never got bored of. It’s not hard to see why it’s a UNESCO world heritage site.
The best things to do in Berat:
- Free walking tour around the city
- Walk around the castle
- Visit the ethnography museum
- Day tour to the Osumi Canyons. I did this with Berat Backpackers and it was the highlight of my trip. Don’t miss it out!
- Visit Bogove waterfall (either on the canyon tour or by car)
- Wine tasting in one of the many wineries located in the region. I did a tour led by the hostel.
- Visit restaurant ‘Lili Home-made food’ From start to finish this was just an awesome experience. Not only was the food delicious but the service was second to none. The menu is small and you are actually sat in Lili’s garden and you’ll use his family bathroom but it is a unique experience that you cannot miss! Make sure to book in advance as there are different sittings throughout the night.
- Stroll up Bulevardi Republika during the evening. This is where all the locals congregate to stroll up and down and it’s got such a nice feeling.
Where to stay: Berat Backpackers (one of the most beautiful hostels I’ve ever stayed in)
Gjirokaster (2-3 days)
The second UNESCO world heritage site on this itinerary and rightly deserved. Gjirokaster is a super cute little cobbled city located between the Gjerë mountains and the Drino river. Overlooked by a fortress, I found this city to be the perfect mix of history and nature.
Things to do:
- Walking tour around the city. I did one led by Stone City hostel.
- Wander the cobbled streets
- Walk up to the fortress
- Visit Skenduli house. A very well preserved, original ottoman house with most rooms in their original state. The building is still in the Skenduli family and they are happy to show you around.
- Browse the souvenir shops
- Visit the cold war tunnel (explore the city and you’ll probably find lots of hidden abandoned ones too!)
- Explore the nearby mountains. The owner of Stone City took us on a tour to some local waterfalls and on a little hike through the mountains. We were even invited into a local’s house who he was friends with and we drank homemade raki
Where to stay: Stone City Hostel (voted the best hostel in Albania 3 years in a row!)
Himara (3 days)
I was very excited to hit to Albanian riviera and it did not disappoint. Himara, the largest village on the southern riviera was a lot less crowded and more chill than Saranda. In my opinion, it is the better, cheaper, more authentic beach getaway that isn’t as crowded with tourists.
Things to do:
- Spend the day chilling in a beach bar
- Do a boat trip with Himara watertaxi. We stopped at many different swim spots, secluded beaches and caves. Definitely a must!
- Hike down to the secret Gjiri Filkuri Beach (beware it’s very steep and you need to use a rope so wear appropriate footwear and only take a backpack). We stopped here on our boat tour but part of the adventure was seeing the stunning views from the top of the cliff.
- Enjoy the local seafood
Where to stay: Sunbaker’s Hostel, Himara Hostel
Ksamil (1-2 days)
Much smaller and less visited than Saranda with perfect crystal clear waters. Ksamil is becoming more and more popular. I was really excited to visit Ksamil as the pictures looked incredible. However, as beautiful as they were, I found the beaches to be super over crowded with tourists, however, we didn’t make it over to the islands so maybe they are a little quieter. Ksamil had a great selection of bars and restaurants. However, as I visited when they were under a 12pm Covid curfew I didn’t get chance to sample any of the nightlife.
The best things to do in Ksamil:
- Visit Ksamil islands. Uninhabited islands that sit in front of Ksamil.
- Enjoy the nightlife in the form of many outdoor bars
- Visit Butrint National Park, one of the most important national parks in Albania. The park is home to an abundance of history, culture and threatened species. It is also located along a rocky coastline so take a while to just sit and admire the views
Saranda (2 days)
Saranda is probably the most popular place to visit and it’s not difficult to see why with it sitting perfectly on the Albanian riviera. Just be prepared for it to be quite busy and to keep an eye on your belongings. If you’re going to be scammed anywhere in Albania then it’s here. Always ask to see a menu and clarify prices before purchasing things. We got stung by promotions on boards outside that weren’t as they seemed. Just asking beforehand will help you avoid overpaying for anything. It’s also the perfect end place to end in order to fly out of Corfu which is often cheaper for UK flights.
Things to do:
- Stroll down the boulevard and enjoy the views
- Visit the beach
- Enjoy the sunset from a rooftop bar
- Enjoy the nightlife
- Hop over to Corfu, Greece for the day (30 mins on the ferry)
- Do one of the many day trips on offer
Where to stay: Saranda Backpackers. Ideal is you have an early ferry as it is right next to the ferry port.