Most people have heard of Seville, locally known as ‘Sevilla’. When most people think of Seville the first thing they most commonly envisage is the incredible structure that is Plaza España. I was completely unaware before travelling that Plaza España actually features for a few moments in Star Wars which is where some people may recognise it from.
Seville had been on my bucket list for a looooong time. I spent hours scrolling through Instagram looking at these incredible buildings and parks until last September, I spotted some cheap flights on Skyscanner. A few weeks later I was zooming around this amazing city on a Lime scooter hoping to one day make this city home.
Seville is located in the Andalucía region in the South of Spain. Andalucía is home to some incredible cities so I knew I had to try see as much as I could while I was there. In 2016 I was supposed to move to Cádiz to teach in a school, unfortunately this placement was cancelled and I ended up going to Vigo (which I absolutely loved). However, I was adamant I wanted to see where I could have spent a year of my life. Being one of the oldest cities in Europe, I knew there would be lots to see. A few of my friends spent their placement year in Córdoba, with it only being a 2 hour bus ride, I thought I’d take their recommendation and check it out whilst I was there.
All I would say it that whilst this itinerary is doable and I had a great time, I would definitely recommend spending at least 2 full days in both Cádiz and Córdoba if you can. Therefore totalling 8 days (or more if you’re lucky enough to have extra time) if you want to relax a bit more and take in the atmosphere of cities rich in culture.
Looking at the map it probably looks like more sense to start in Cádiz, go to Seville then end in Córdoba or vice versa. However, Córdoba does not have a international airport and therefore, we would have needed to travel back to Seville or to Málaga to get back to the UK. However, if you are planning to continue travelling to other parts of Spain after this route then Cádiz, Seville to Córdoba would make more sense or flip it and end your Spanish journey in Cádiz flying out of Jerez. The route Seville, Córdoba to Granada is also a very good route often referred to as ‘The Golden Triangle of Andalucía’. If you have time I would highly recommend visiting Granada. The only reason I didn’t factor it into this trip is due to a lack of time and because I already spent 10 glorious days there back in 2013 as part of a study trip.
Day 1: Cádiz
On the first day, we had a super early 6am flight from Manchester to Jerez. From the airport we took the train directly to Cádiz. When booking our tickets online, it only made it look like two trains per day were departing so we booked the earliest one after arriving and planned to wait 2 hours. However, when we arrived there were in fact more departures and a Cercanias train also passing through the airport going to Cádiz. It was quite gutting having to watch the first train pass us by and having to wait in the scorching sun for the train we had booked. Therefore, I would suggest just buying tickets at the machines at the station to not have that issue or having to worry about delays. There is also one going directly to Seville if you are wanting to head straight there. The train to Cádiz takes just under an hour and costs roughly €6-7 one way.
Upon arriving into Cádiz, we checked into our hostel and we went to explore. We went in search of lunch and of course we found a 100 montaditos. With it being a Wednesday and Euromania I couldn’t say no. After our cheap but satisfying montaditos and Tinto de Verano, we went in search of the city’s cathedral.
We were only interested in going up the towers to the viewing platform however we were informed we needed to buy a combined ticket for the cathedral too which cost around €6. The Cathedral was impressive but after seeing many impressive churches, cathedrals and basilicas throughout Spain it did not leave a lasting impression. The audio guide helped me to understand the different parts of the Cathedral but after a while it did become a little monotonous and we cut it short. The best part was climbing up a never ending ramp to the ‘Torre de Poniente’. The views from here were rather impressive and allowed us to get a good view of both the sea and the city. Please be aware it is a tiring walk up to the towers so if you do have reduced mobility then you may struggle.
We spent the rest of the day wandering. Cádiz is a rather small city and we did not need to use public transport within the city at all. We had a walk through Genovés park, across La Caleta beach where we spent an hour sunbathing and swimming in the sea.
Lastly, we took a stroll across ‘Paseo Fernando Quiñones’, a walkway out to sea which heads towards ‘El Castillo de San Sebastián’. The castle is permanently closed at the minute. However, the walk across during sunset was nice. The waves do sometimes crash over the walkway so prepare to get a little wet.
In the evening we searched for a tapas place to visit. After wandering and not being able to decide where to eat (due to my indecisiveness), we took to searching Tripadvisor for a nice tapas restaurant. Eventually we decided on a place. I had never heard of a lot of the dishes and the menu didn’t state what each dish consisted of. Even though I can speak Spanish, I didn’t think to ask for clarification about what some of the dishes were and we just ordered. I can be a bit of a fussy eater and one thing I absolutely cannot stand is raw fish. What did we end up with? Raw fish of course. Rather than leave the dish uneaten and offend the staff, we dared each other to eat a piece. I have to say it was exactly as I imagined it, ABSOLUTELY DISGUSTING. However, that’s just our taste and if you love your seafood then Cádiz is the place for you.
Day 2: Córdoba
At around 8am we caught a bus to Córdoba. It took around 3hr30 and cost around £13 . We pre-booked the bus through the company Sociobus. It wasn’t the most luxurious bus ever but it was on time, clean enough and most importantly got us to our destination in one piece. I am an avid hostel user and I absolutely love them! However, my boyfriend isn’t as easily persuaded into the shared dorm life. After having a private room in a hostel in Cádiz, we booked Hospedería Los Angeles, somewhere with a little more luxurious but still at a fairly budget price. The hotel was lovely and modern. It didn’t bother us but when the windows were open the noise from the other rooms did echo but that’s the only fault I could say about it.
The first thing we did after checking in was visit the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, which cost €5 entrance fee. The Alcázar is medieval palace which forms part of the Historic Centre of Córdoba that was declared a World Heritage UNESCO sit in 1994. The grounds of the palace are the most interesting and beautiful, they are so peaceful to walk around. They are situated within the walls of four towers. Make sure to go up the towers as it makes for a great view point.
One thing that is a MUST is the Mezquita de Córdoba (The Mosque-Catherdral of Córdoba). It is a fairly famous Mosque due to it’s mix of Muslim and Christian influences and it is like nothing I have every seen before. We paid €10 at the ticket booths outside in the to go inside (you can pay €2 extra to go up the bell tower) and we spent about half hour admiring the beauty inside. We went at around midday by which is was pretty busy. We didn’t have to queue to go in but if you’re hoping to get some lovely pictures with no-one in the background then I suggest you time your visit right to beat the crowds. The opening hours vary throughout the year and also depending on the day but generally it opens at 8.30am. Early morning or after 4.00pm is generally suggested as the best time to visit as day-trips from Seville, Málaga, Granada and even Madrid (yes, people come that far to see this place!) usually arrive from 11.00am but leave by 16.00. REMEMBER, this is still a functioning religious place and therefore the usual dress code applies. Guided tours are available.
VISIT THE MEZQUITA FOR FREE. As I always like to do things on a budget, you can actually visit the Mezquita for FREE between 8.30 to 9.30 (except Sundays). Certain areas are cordoned off. However, you will be able to get a feel for it during this time and see the main areas.
In the evening we ate at La Siesta restaurant which had nice food before we headed to La Plaza de la Corredera as we had heard there was a live music event on. We caught the last bit of the music and a big light show across the buildings that line the square. You could buy drinks from any of the bars in the square which were then served in plastic cups allowing you to wander the square as you pleased and enjoy the atmosphere. Outdoor events like these are common throughout Spain so it’s always worth googling whether anything similar is happening wherever you are planning on visiting. We then headed to the popular Jazz Café before ending the night at Gongora Gran Café where I think we paid around €8 entrance with a free drink (which typical of Spain are not measured). We arrived at around 2am although it didn’t bet busy until about 3am which is normal for Spain. The atmosphere was pretty good and they mostly played Reggaetón. We were even joined by a wedding party including the bride in her dress at almost 4am.
Day 3: Seville
From Córdoba we took the bus to Seville. This time we used the company ALSA with the ticket costing around €15 each and the journey taking 1hr45. On arrival to Seville we walked to our Airbnb which was located a little out of the centre. It was a lovely apartment with a jacuzzi bath and bikes to use.
That afternoon we rode our bikes to Plaza de España which I was so desperate to see. It was just as magical as I had imagined. People passing the time on rowing boats and there were even some locals doing some Flamenco. After wandering around the amazing grounds we continued around El Parque Santa María on our bikes. This was just as lovely and calming and a cry from the hustle and bustle of other Spanish cities such as Barcelona or Madrid.
Day 4: Seville
In the morning we took a FREE walking tour with Sandermans. It took around 2hr30 starting in Plaza del Salvador and finishing in Plaza de España. During the tour we visited The Roman Temple, City Hall, The Cathedral of Seville, Patio de Banderas and the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. I think this was one of my all time favourite Sandermans tours I’ve ever done and I try to do one in every city I visit that does one. Our guide told us so many quirky stories of the history of Seville, the history of Flamenco and even took us to the highest point in Seville, which was completely flat! (Seville is very flat which is why it is the perfect city to cycle around). We didn’t get chance to go inside the Cathedral due it missing it’s opening times although we got to look inside the equally impressive Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador which cost €4. You can get a combined ticket with the Catherdral for €9 (check for student discount as it may be cheaper!) In the afternoon we visited Las Setas de Sevilla (The Mushrooms of Seville). It is a giant wooden structure that kind of looks like a big umbrella over part of the city that a great viewing platform. The cost was €3 and I would recommend. Afterwards, we went to a rooftop bar called Pura Vida Terraza. It was not cheap at around €10 a cocktail although the atmosphere was great to watch the sun go down.
In the evening we visited El Pinton for dinner which was lovely and the staff went out of their way to draw us directions to La Alameda. This was where we headed for a few drinks after as it is known as the area for students with quirky bars and restaurants. We visited Los 100 Cocktelitos and while it wasn’t a fancy or an amazing place we got two, one litre cocktails for only €10.90 and we even struck up conversation with some locals.
Day 5: Seville
On our final day we had all intentions of visited Real Alcázar de Sevilla. As it was a Monday we were informed that it is free during the last hour of the day. However, we didn’t book tickets advance and when we arrived it was fully booked. This was one thing I was really gutted I had missed out on as photos of it look absolutely stunning and I’ve heard great things about it. Don’t do what we did and make sure you book it IN ADVANCE. The general admission price is €11.50 if you go in normal opening hours. Instead, we spent the afternoon wandering the city and eating ice cream. We then had a wander through the Triana neighbourhood which is just across the bridge. It has a completely different vibe to the rest of the city and is famous for it’s Flamenco.
In Seville we used the ‘Lime Scooters’ as a fun way to get around. They are electric scooters that are dotted all over the city. You download the app, scan the scooter and off you go. When you get to your destination, you end the ride on the app and it tells you how much your journey cost. If I remember rightly it cost €1 to unlock the scooter then it cost €0.15 per minute. So it was a very cheap and fun way to explore Seville. Just be careful as they do go quite fast!
In the evening we ate at Taberna Coloniales as I had read it was one of the best tapas restaurants. It had a very strange set-up but I enjoyed it. We arrived and I gave my name to the guy at the bar, he wrote my name on a chalk board and I waited outside with the others who also had their name on the board. When a table came free, he would shout your name and in you went to your table. The tapas dishes here were super cheap starting at around €2. I would recommend for a cheap satisfying dinner. It is not a fancy restaurant but it is a very authentic restaurant in which you see lots of locals eating at. On the way home we took a stroll down the Guadalquivir riverbank which was nicely lit up in the evening.
Day 6: Leaving Seville
On Day 6 we had an early flight out of Seville airport. We got an Uber to the airport. However, for a cheaper option there is an airport bus ‘EA line’ which connects Seville to the Airport. This runs every 25-30 minutes throughout the day costing €4 one way.
If you’ve got a full day before your flight, then why not pass the time eating your weight in tapas and enjoying the world go by with a glass of sangria.